“Considering how solidly venison is part of Wisconsin’s food culture, it’s surprisingly rare to find the meat in restaurants. Enter the Union House, where venison often is among the restaurant’s wild-game specials. Michael Green, the head chef since June (and the first new chef in 27 years), served the garnet filets with parsnip puree in late summer, a delicious dish. But really, I could throw a dart at the menu and count on hitting something delicious and well-prepared, whether it’s a soup of the day, excellent steaks or seafood. The Union House, whose structure dates to the 1860s, is classic Wisconsin to me, but it doesn’t stand still — the expansive wine list and long lineup of Scotches now can be sorted on a tablet, brought to your table.”
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